Owen Edward
Brennan, the founder of Brennan's Restaurant, was born April
5, 1910, in New Orleans' "Irish Channel" to Owen Patrick Brennan
and his wife, Nellie. Over a span of the next twenty-three
years, Owen’s younger siblings were born in the following
order: Adelaide, John, Ella, Richard (Dick) and Dorothy (Dottie).
Owen was already married when Dick and Dottie were born. Shortly
after their births, Owen Edward Brennan, Jr. (Pip) was born
to Owen and his wife, Maude. In time, Maude gave birth to
two more sons, James (Jimmy) and Theodore (Ted) providing
Owen with three male heirs.
Throughout his adult life, Owen Edward Brennan was driven by his
devotion and an undaunting sense of responsibility to support
not only his own wife and three sons but his parents and siblings
as well. His father, Owen Patrick Brennan, was a New Orleans foundry
laborer, which had made supporting Nellie and their six children
very difficult; and so, his eldest son, Owen Edward Brennan set
out to make his fortune.
Owen's undertakings and endeavors included buying an interest
in a gas station as well as a drugstore and becoming the bookkeeper
for a candy Company. He worked as a liquor salesman and district
manager for Schenley Company and, finally, as the temporary manager
of the Court of Two Sisters Restaurant.
In September 1943, Owen purchased the business of the Old Absinthe
House on Bourbon Street. The Absinthe House had been built in
1798 and was known to be pirate Jean Lafitte's secret hangout.
As its most recent proprietor, Owen staged lifelike mannequins
of the notorious Lafitte and Andrew Jackson in what he called
the "Secret Room" - the very room in which the pact was supposedly
made in New Orleans' defense against the British at the Battle
of New Orleans.
Owen became one of the city's best known hosts at his colorful
Old Absinthe House, "the oldest saloon in America." Pianist Fats
Pichon added to its charm with his talented renditions from Bach
to boogie.
Owen added another dimension of ambience to the historical and
musical atmosphere of the Old Absinthe House by inviting myriads
of visitors to attach their business cards to its inside walls.
Eventually, thousands of cards and autographed papers hung from
its ceiling as well.
Owen's customers could recapture the past with a Pirate's Dream,
the specialty drink of the Old Absinthe House. He labeled it "the
high brow of all low brow drinks." Owen perpetuated the popularity
of the Absinthe Frappe, an original creation of the Absinthe House
and a favorite of Presidents Franklin D. Roosevelt, Dwight D.
Eisenhower and Admiral Earnest King.
Yet the adventuresome drinks and unique atmosphere of the Old
Absinthe House were not Owen's essential keys to success. Owen
Brennan didn't need frappes but only the flash of his smile and
a warm welcome to his many customers. It was once written that
Owen would hit his customers over the head with his personality
- "a blow from which few tourists, writers, movie celebrities
or presidents ever completely recovered." With this innate ability
to win friends and customers while committing each and every one
of their names to memory, it was no wonder that Owen would become
a distinctively successful restaurateur.
Owen's good friend, Count Arnaud, whose restaurant was a popular
New Orleans dining spot, allegedly posed a challenge to Owen.
Owen would relay complaints overheard at the Absinthe House to
offending restaurant owners. To which Count Arnaud replied, "You're
forever telling me about the complaints you hear. If you think
you can do better, why don't you open a restaurant?"
At the same time Count Arnaud taunted that no Irishman could run
a restaurant that was more than a hamburger joint. To which Owen
responded, " All right you asked for it! I'll show you and everybody
else that an Irishman can run the finest French restaurant in
this town!"
In July 1946, Owen Edward Brennan leased the Vieux Carre Restaurant
directly across the street from the Old Absinthe House. He named
his new restaurant for himself, Owen Brennan's French & Creole
Restaurant; and with time, it came to be more commonly known as
Owen Brennan's Vieux Carre.
Owen employed his gray-haired father, Owen Patrick Brennan, as
he feared injury would befall him in the shipyards. He then gave
his father a small percentage of the business. Making his father
a minority stockholder was Owen's way of providing and caring
for his parents as well as his younger siblings.
The success or failure of this venture rested solely on the shoulders
of Owen. Owen Edward Brennan had become the patriarch of the family.
Everyone deferred to Owen. Many years his junior, Owen's siblings
were either still youngsters in school or just starting out.
At Owen Brennan’s Vieux Carre, Owen's father was found greeting
the luncheon customers until a heart attack in the early 50's
slowed him down. Eventually, Owen employed two of his younger
sisters, Adelaide and Ella, as well as a younger brother, John.
Adelaide became the bookkeeper and Ella the kitchen supervisor.
John was employed by his brother for a brief time only.
Owen Edward Brennan and his Vieux Carre restaurant attained nationwide
fame on an "Irish smile and a kiss of the Blarney Stone." Owen
built his restaurant into a famous institution overnight, competing
with New Orleans' oldest and best in French and Creole cuisine.
Owen's research and knowledge of French food, fine wine and impeccable
service made him a master. He was called the "wonder man" of the
New Orleans restaurant industry. Owen's Irish stubbornness compelled
him to work extremely long and hard hours to put Brennan's on
the culinary map - locally and nationwide.
Owen's ready wit, radiant smile and infectious laugh endeared
him to locals, Hollywood celebrities and tourists alike. He was
so very kind to so many people and was genuinely loved in return.
As the famous novelist and syndicated columnist Robert Ruark once
wrote about his good friend, "If he had a fault, it was his generosity."
Owen was full of energy and possessed an incredible imagination;
and all was reflected in Brennan's success.
Owen was known in Hollywood movie circles and entertained some
of the brightest stars in his French Quarter restaurant - Vivian
Leigh, John Wayne, Robert Mitchum, Barbara Stanwyck, Robert Taylor,
Gary Cooper, Jane Russell and Tennessee Williams, to name a few.
For national magazine writers and syndicated columnists, such
as Earl Wilson, Walter Winchell, Hedda Hopper, Dorothy Kilgallen,
Robert Ruark and Lucius Beebe, Brennan's was oftentimes their
first stop on assignments to cover New Orleans. As a result, many
stories were written of Owen's life and success in the restaurant
business in national publications, such as Newsweek, Collier's,
Holiday, Life and Gourmet magazines.
The advancement of the New Orleans community was high on Owen's
list of priorities. He was especially devoted to the promotion
of the New Orleans tourist trade and was labeled a "one man Chamber
of Commerce." Appointed by Mayor Chep Morrison, Owen was the founding
chairman of the first New Orleans Tourist Commission. He was a
driving force as a member of the New Orleans Crime Commission
and the city's Chamber of Commerce. As a promoter of the New Orleans
tourism industry, Owen arranged a special Mardi Gras ball for
visitors during the Carnival season.
As a restaurateur, Owen Edward Brennan was a genius in a business
for which he had no formal education. His creative ability was
Brennan's crowning glory. After the publication of Frances Parkinson
Keyes' Dinner at Antoine's, a new experience was conceived.
Owen was convinced that if the concept "Dinner at Antoine's" could
so successfully captivate a gastronomic audience, then why not
"Breakfast at Brennan's?" And so Owen became the first in his
time to promote this epicurean experience anywhere.
Brennan's, as Owen ultimately wanted his restaurant to be called,
became such a lucrative venture that when the time came to renew
the lease on the Bourbon Street building, the landlord demanded
fifty percent of the business. Unwilling to meet these demands,
Owen searched for a new location for his restaurant and found
its present location on Royal Street.
Owen was under a tremendous amount of stress as a result of his
landlord's demands and his decision to move to Royal Street. At
that time Royal Street was not the busy thoroughfare it is today.
In fact, the Royal Orleans Hotel was not even in existence.
In 1954, Owen leased the building and began renovating and redecorating
the Patio Royal at 417 Royal Street to convert it into the new
Brennan's Restaurant. On November 1, 1955, Owen invited Brennan's
initial customers to join him at his officially opened bar located
in the building carriageway. The opening of the restaurant was
scheduled for the spring of 1956, but the hand of fate dealt a
devastating blow.
Since the spring of 1950, Owen had been a member of La Confrerie
des Chevaliers du Tastevin, an elite wine society whose original
home was the Chateau du Clos de Vougeot, Cote d'Or since 1551.
The objectives of the Tastevin were for its members to appreciate
and promote the products of Burgundy and to maintain the region's
festivities and customs.
Owen attended the fall dinner of its New Orleans chapter at Antoine's
Restaurant on a Thursday evening in November 1955. That night
no one enjoyed the exquisite wines, superb food and comradery
of good friends more than Owen.
The next morning, Maude was unable to wake her husband. At the
age of forty-five, Owen Edward Brennan had died of a massive coronary
in his sleep on a fateful Friday, November 4, 1955. Although shock
and grief overwhelmed his family and the friends who loved him
so dearly, Brennan's Restaurant still opened in its new Royal
Street location on schedule.
At the time of Owen's passing, his sister, Ella, was thirty years
old and was still the kitchen supervisor. Yet her strong will
and leadership ability enabled her to assume the role of manager
of Brennan's Restaurant. Owen's widow, Maude, had not been involved
at Brennan's in a managerial capacity, and none of their three
sons was old enough to affirm their positions as proprietors.
At the time of their fathers death, Pip was a graduating college
senior, Jimmy a sophomore in high school and Ted only seven years
old. Immediately following his college graduation, Pip assumed
a leadership role in the management of his late father's restaurant.
When Owen died, his photograph and the tragic news of his passing
were front page headlines for New Orleans' Times-Picayune and
Item newspapers. Time magazine included the calamitous
report in "Milestones." Not only did nationally read Robert Ruark
and New Orleans' own Herman Deutsch dedicate their columns to
Owen Edward Brennan. But the editorial in the Item Sunday
edition immediately following Owen's death was entitled "A Truly
Fabulous Orleanian" in tribute to Owen.
In its new location on Royal Street, Brennan's prospered as it
had on Bourbon Street. Owen's multitude of friends continued to
patronize the restaurant he had founded even though their good
friend was no longer there. Owen's ingenious concept of "Breakfast
at Brennan's" and the dishes that were invented under his scrutiny,
including Bananas Foster and Eggs Hussarde, combined with the
expertise of his Dutch Chef Paul Blangé, had made Brennan's world-famous.
Owen's younger sister, Ella, inherited an enviable legacy in her
position as Brennan's manager. Ella had learned most of what she
knew about the restaurant business from her brother, Owen, whom
she adored. Through the years Ella had observed not only Owen's
technique in managing the daily operations but also his distinct
style and finesse in dealing with the customers and news media.
The mastery of public relations had been an exceptional expertise
of Owen.
By maintaining Owen's many contacts and friends in the local and
national news media, Ella was successful in her acquisition of
publicity for Brennan's. She maintained Owen's friendships with
numerous restaurateurs across the country and continued to promote
Brennan's as a culinary mecca for celebrities.
Shortly after Owen's death, Brennan's needed additional working
capital. Maude, Owen's widow, had already invested the money realized
from her husband's life insurance policy in Brennan's, but these
proceeds alone were not enough. Maude was advised by her late
husband's good friend and financial advisor, Ralph Alexis, to
offer her father-in-law, Owen Patrick Brennan, the opportunity
to purchase additional Brennan's stock from her rather than allow
non-relatives to become partners.
To provide the financial means, it was necessary that Maude's
father-in-law borrow the money to purchase this stock. The cash
proceeds from such a transaction would provide the business with
the additional working capital. Maude heeded Ralph's advice and
allowed her father-in-law to increase his percentage as a minority
stockholder while maintaining control of Brennan's Restaurant
for herself and Owen's three sons.
Owen Patrick Brennan and his wife, Nellie, died within a couple
of years following the death of their son, Owen Edward Brennan.
When Owen Patrick Brennan died, his minority interest in Brennan’s
was divided among each of his own five surviving children and
the late Owen Edward Brennan's three sons, Pip, Jimmy and Ted,
further securing Maude and Owen's three sons as majority stockholders
of Brennan's Restaurant. Until that time, Owen Patrick Brennan's
children, Adelaide, John, Ella, Dick and Dottie, had not been
stockholders in the restaurant.
As time passed, Ella sought to enlarge her legacy. In 1963, under
Ella's management and direction, Brennan's Restaurant purchased
the Friendship House Restaurant in Biloxi, Mississippi. At that
time, Ella's expansion plans began.
The stock of each expansion restaurant - financed by Brennan's
Restaurant and Owen's widow, Maude - was divided equally among
the nine stockholders of Brennan's and not as the stock was divided
in Brennan's itself. Thus, Ella and her siblings, who comprised
five of the nine Brennan's stockholders, assumed control of the
stock in each expansion restaurant while Maude and her three sons
became the minority stockholders.
Ella continued to expand the Brennan family operations. The opening
of Brennan's Restaurant of Houston in 1967 was next. Jimmy, Owen
and Maude's second son, moved to Houston to manage that operation.
Jimmy had been formally trained in the restaurant business at
École Hôtelière de la S.S.H. in Lausanne, Switzerland. Brennan's
of Houston benefited from Jimmy's knowledge of food, service
and wine and was extremely successful under his management.
Brennan's of Dallas opened in 1969 with no Brennan family member
in charge of its operations. A manager was hired by Ella and the
pitfalls of expansion with absentee ownership became apparent.
In the spring of 1970, Ted, Owen and Maude's youngest son, moved
from San Francisco, where he had been working since his college
graduation, to take over the Dallas restaurant with high hopes
and serious expectations of redeeming its reputation. By the time
Ted arrived in Dallas as the restaurant's newest manager, Brennan's
had been opened for fourteen months and was operating in the red
with little hope of recovery. However, after much hard work, duress
and his own Irish stubbornness, Ted was able to turn Brennan's
of Dallas around, win back many of its initial customers, cultivate
new ones and, finally, show a substantial profit.
In 1969, the Brennan family also purchased an established New
Orleans restaurant, Commander's Palace, as well as a family-style
restaurant in Metairie called Chez Français. After the opening
of Brennan's of Dallas, plans for a Brennan's of Atlanta ensued
as did a chain of two hundred steak houses which was to be called
the Inner Circle. Ella informed the family that she intended to
assume the ownership of substantially more stock than her usual
one-ninth in these two hundred steak houses.
In July 1973, concerns arose among Maude and her sons regarding
the rapid expansion that was occurring. The concerns stemmed from
the obvious inability to manage adequately the restaurants that
already had been acquired.
The overall quality of the original Brennan's in New Orleans was
suffering as were the other acquisitions with the exception of
Brennan's Restaurants in Dallas and Houston. Concentration, finances
and valued employees had been diverted in the efforts of expansion
while culinary excellence was sacrificed.
At the July family meeting in New Orleans, the subject of discontent
was first on the agenda. Surprisingly, Ella's panacea was, as
she put it, "to split up the corporations and not the family."
This may have been possible had everyone agreed to Ella's terms.
However, after discussing Ella's proposal among themselves, Owen's
three sons, Pip, Jimmy and Ted, responded in a manner which Ella
probably had not anticipated. Brennan's Restaurant in New Orleans
had been their father's legacy for them. Along with their mother,
Maude, Pip, Jimmy and Ted controlled its stock and were merely
minority stockholders in the six expansion restaurants. These
were reasons enough to inform Ella that they would assume sole
control of the original Brennan's and that she with her brothers
and sisters could have the remaining six expansion restaurants.
Intense hours of discussion
and negotiations among the accountants and attorneys from both
sides of the family ensued for several months following that fateful
July meeting. However, no proposal splitting the restaurant corporations
equitably was acceptable to Ella as long as she was not awarded
the original Brennan's Restaurant. After months of endless negotiations
and frustrating attempts to settle this unfortunate family dispute
amicably, on November 5, 1973, Maude, Pip, Jimmy and Ted assumed
complete control of Brennan's Restaurant of New Orleans resulting
in a family schism. The issue of expansion may have been only
the tip of the iceberg among the real causes of unrest, unfairness
and resentment within the family; but this single issue simplifies
the story.
Immediately, after the Brennan family split, Maude, Pip, Jimmy
and Ted restored Brennan's to the quality-oriented restaurant
that Owen Edward Brennan had originally established. Through the
years they have worked diligently to maintain its greatness. Simultaneously,
Ella recognized the need to restore Commander's Palace, as it
had declined also since its acquisition by the Brennan’s in 1969.
Commander's then provided a New Orleans base for her six restaurant
corporations.
Not until November 1974 was a complete and final agreement reached
between the two factions of the family. At that time, Maude, Pip,
Jimmy and Ted assumed complete ownership of Brennan's Restaurant
in New Orleans with no minority stockholders remaining, while
Ella and her siblings accomplished the same in all six expansion
restaurants. Since that time, Ella and her brothers and sisters
have closed four of their original six restaurants with only Brennan's
of Houston and Commander's Palace remaining.
Ella and her family have since expanded their restaurant holdings.
Brennan's Restaurant in New Orleans is in no way affiliated with
these most recent ventures or any other restaurant operations.
Owen's three sons, Pip, Jimmy and Ted, remain the sole owners
and operators of their fathers world-famous restaurant on Royal
Street.
Owen Edward Brennan set the high
standard of excellence still nurtured today by his three sons, Pip,
Ted, and Jimmy.
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